Thinkin' and Drinkin' Pink--Great Rose Wines

As the blazing sun beat down on the pavement, I wiped a bead of sweat from my forehead and checked the temperature.  It was no surprise to my red-faced self that it said 91 degrees…in the middle of September.  

Now, I’m not complaining about the heat.  It is actually a special treat for those of us here on the edge of the Black Hills; we call it Indian summer, and we enjoy every day of it.  Mostly because we remember that last year at this exact time we had not only had several nights of a hard freeze, we had also already experienced our first snow storm of the year.

This beautiful weather actually begins to lull area residents into a false sense of security about Mother Nature and her moodiness.  We start to believe we can still drink our favorite summertime wines for months; we have all confidence that our warm-weather drinking habits can continue indefinitely.

But we are always wrong.  

The morning chill reminds us.  The earlier sunset hints at us.  The hard frost prediction in less than two weeks jogs our memory.  

There is no indefinite summer drinking where I live.  None.  

I better get out my favorite rosés and start sipping.  The snowflakes will be falling soon enough, and my transition to heavier, winter wines will begin…whether (weather) I am actually ready or not. 

I loved rosés long before this past year when it was “cool” to drink pink.  I’m not talking your grandmother’s white zin.  I’m talking bone dry pinks.  I can enjoy multiple kinds of rosés, but my favorites are complex, delicate, and/or flavorful.  Here are a few of the standout summer pink drinks from my warm-weather tasting.

Las Rocas Rosé

Spain is a great value for wines in general and rosés in particular.  Made from the garnacha (grenache) grape, this was originally under twelve dollars a bottle; then it was on special, so what a steal at under ten dollars for a great sunny-day sipper.  The nose is filled with strawberry, melon, stone, floral, and white pepper.  On the palate it has a hint of sweetness shown through the strawberry, green herb, and fresh flower.  Pair with robust cheeses for a slight contrast between the hint of sweetness in the wine and the savory flavors of the cheese.

Firehouse Wine Cellars Roosevelt

Yes, I’m including a wine produced in my neck of the woods; it may be a bit of personal bias, but I so enjoyed this wine.  Though it is produced from California fruit, all the production happens in Rapid City, South Dakota.  Another rosé with slight sweetness on the palate, this grenache-based wine has orange blossom and raspberry on the nose first; then the palate is filled with strawberries and green grass.  The gorgeous salmon color is absolutely mesmerizing.  Pair it with fresh fruit, such as strawberry and kiwi.

 

VJB Le Due Rosé

Another rather unique pink, this is made from the aleatico grape, a common variety in Italy but a quite uncommon variety in Sonoma where it is produced.  The aleatico creates a deep, hot pink hue in the wine.  It is not only saturated with color, but with flavor as well.  On the nose there are peaches and flowers with a hint of white pepper.  On the palate, the peach, berries, and floral come through again.  Pair this with light Italian food, think Caprese salad with an aged balsamic drizzle. 

MacPhail Rose

Vivid pink in color, this rosé of Sonoma Coast pinot noir is moving to the dry side of pink, my favored style.  The nose is filled with orange, strawberry, and dried grass.  The palate brings forth more of the strawberry from the nose and adds dried herbs.  This leads to a great floral finish that lasts and lasts.  I love the complexity of this wine; there is so much to contemplate from first sip to final swallow.  Because the flavor is so saturated, this wine pairs with flavorful pasta salads and cold-served picnic meals.

Cartograph Rose

Another rosé of pinot noir, this time sourced from the North Coast, Cartograph shows the delicate side of rosé, which begins in its beautiful baby pink shade. Don’t mistake this delicacy for a simple wine though.  From the first sniff, wet rock, green grass, orange blossom, and fresh rose come through.  On the palate, it is perfectly dry with peaches and orange blossoms to the finish.  Drink this paired with a warm evening on the patio and one of your closest friends…because believe me, it’s so good you won’t want to share!

Chateau TrinQuevedel Traditional Reserve

It would seem that no discussion of great summer pink wines would be complete without including some fabulous French rosés.  The Tavel region of the southern Rhone Valley produces only rosès, and the style of these wines is my ultimate favorite.  A deep rose shade, the blend of multiple grapes—grenache, cinsault, clairette, syrah, mourvèdre, and bourbolenc—gives this wine so much character.  Deep and dry, this vino shows ripe strawberry, green herbs, and white spices on both the nose and palate.  Pair with cheese and charcuterie or white meats. 

Though today I sat in the heat of the sun until I was sweating and thirsty for something other than wine (water, thank you), I know not to be fooled.  I may wish my summer drinking days would last forever, but in my part of the country, this is just not the case.  I need to relish every last sip of my favorite summer wines:  beautiful pink rosès!  I tasted many that I truly appreciated this season, and once the snow starts to fly—which could actually be in just a few short weeks if the past has taught us anything—I will remember these summertime sips as I long for sunshine and warm weather to pair with a patio on a perfect evening.

What a Historical Web We Weave--Historic Sonoma Wineries

“The more I have learned about wine ... the more I have realized that it weaves in with human history from its very beginning as few, if any, other products do.”  No where is this Hugh Johnson quote more true than Sonoma County.  A melting pot of cultures from around the world, Sonoma’s wine history is a rich tapestry, woven together from the many immigrants who brought wine with them to the west coast. 

From Hungry to Italy, Sonoma’s historical wine makers paved the broken road for United States’ wine to arrive where it is today.  Sonoma’s historically important wineries reflect the unique characteristics of the region then, and still show the qualities that make it such a special place today. 

The Hungarian—Buena Vista Winery:

Touted as California’s first winery, Buena Vista—just outside of the town of Sonoma—was founded by Hungarian Agoston Haraszthy in 1857.  The winery continued to grow grapes and make wine for nearly twenty years.  The property was sold, and the new owners were not in the business.  Fast forward through the lean years of prohibition to arrive at 1949, and Buena Vista again became a working winery.  Today, it is owned by Boisset Family Estates, a group that has lovingly restored it to its historic splendor. 

Buena Vista, historic and important. 

While surrounded by all the history, wine lovers can taste many distinct wines, from sparkling to zins.  Tastings occur in the original press house, but other tours allow customers to explore the caves and the winery, as well.  Special events happen all year, including a living history day in the summer for spectators to imagine how a winery in the 1800s would have actually operated.

My fellow wine lovers in front of the original press house, now the tasting room.

Walking up the drive from the parking lot to the tasting room (or hitching a ride on a golf cart like my friends and I), truly feels like going back in time.  The period clothing employees wear adds to the feeling of taking a step back, of reversing time to the first glory days of Sonoma wine. 

Spotlight Wines:
2012 Blanc de Noir Brut—always one to love a sparkling, this is a great example of why these wines are some of my favorites.  Crisp and refreshing with the aromas and flavors of fresh-baked lemon bread, pour this all summer and then again during celebrations the rest of the year.

Bring on the Buena Vista bubbles!

2013 Attila’s Selection Zinfandel—Old vine zinfandel fans will enjoy this wine with elements of black fruit and spice on the nose.  On the palate, the black fruits comes through with ripened characteristics, then the wine hits you with its pepper, spice, and chocolate.

2012 The Sheriff of Buena Vista—Named for Agoston, who was indeed once a sheriff, this is a blend of petite sirah, syrah, petit verdot, cabernet sauvignon, and grenache.  Those grapes lead to a well-balanced wine, bold on both the nose and palate.  Plus, a cool price and even cooler bottle (a metal sheriff’s badge is the label…love it!), this is a great purchase. 

Show that badge on the Buena Vista Sheriff.

The Italians—Seghesio Family Vineyards

Italian immigrants were very important in early Sonoma wine development.  Many settled in the northern part of Sonoma County, so many that regions of the county even became known as Asti and Chianti Station based on the inhabitants there.  These wonderful Italian names still show themselves in Sonoma—names like Seghesio at Seghesio Family Vineyards. 

An original winery facility from 1882, now Seghesio property. 

The family vineyards were planted in 1895 and the fourth generation of Seghesios—Ted as wine maker and Dave as head of operations—still operates the winery, though since 2011 it is no longer family owned.

Many Italian grape varieties—both red and white—are produced into wine at the facility Seghesio Family bought in 1949 but was built (for another winery) in 1882.  Most of the Italian grapes, like vermentino and aglianico, are grown at the original Home Ranch Vineyard that even has some 120-year-old vines.  Other grapes are sourced from Seghesio’s Keyhole Ranch or some of the 400-plus acres around Sonoma County. 

Seghesio's vineyards.

Zinfandel must be mentioned in the same breath as this producer since it produces so many quality options.  Seghesio sources zin from many different areas like Dry Creek Valley, Alexander Valley, and Rockpile AVAs and then distributes all over the country.  However, some are only found in the tasting room outside of Healdsburg.

An entire lineup of Seghesio Zinfandels.

Spotlight Wines:

2014 Vermentino—a fairly unique wine to be found in California, this classic Italian grape is grown in the Russian River Valley.  Juicy pear lingers on the nose, with the pear coming through on the palate, as well.  The wine finishes with a refreshing grass flavor.

Vermentino and other Italian varietal wines.

2011 Venom—the sangiovese grapes for this wine are sourced from the hillside of Rattlesnake Hill, hence the name Venom.   My fellow lovers of red Italian wines will enjoy this take on the grape.  Bold with vibrant and silky tannins, the ripe red fruits carry this to a lovely finish.

2012 Old Vine Zinfandel—one of the best known and most popular zins from Seghesio, this zinfandel comes from vines planted anywhere from 1890 to 1930, truly old.  Just a small percentage of petite sirah gives great fruit components to the wine.  Add in the finish that lasts forever, and this is a wine that you will want to drink now; however, this could age for up to ten years.

The Italians—Foppiano Vineyards

Another Italian family, the Foppianos, began making wine in 1896, when Giovoni started selling his wine the old-fashioned, Italian way—customers bringing in their own jugs to fill.  Fast forward to today as the fifth generation of Foppianos, Paul and his family, still own and operate the winery. 

The winery and surroundings continue to show historic importance.  Many of the old orchard trees still dot the property producing figs and avocados.  The picnic area shares space with the large, elderly walnut tree.  

The old walnut tree in Foppiano's picnic area.

The winery itself still has one of the original redwood tanks and built-in concrete fermenting wall units.  Though neither of these vessels are currently in use, the redwood tanks are a part of the winery…as the ceiling and walls of the tasting room.

Redwood tanks and the wall of cement fermenters. 

History is front and center here for one main reason: the Foppianos survived prohibition…barely.  In 1926, wine was still being produced by the family.  A tip gave the heads up that a federal agent was on his way to Foppiano Vineyards.  With the advanced notice, over 100,000 gallons of wine was dumped alongside the road.  Neighbors came from all around so that not all of this product would be “wasted”; the family’s historic pictures document that some was put to good use…wink.



Family photo of the prohibition wine dump. 

Spotlight Wines:

2013 Della’s Block Chardonnay—from the block of chardonnay vines named for Louis J.’s wife and Joe’s daughter, this is a rich chardonnay (one hundred percent of the wine went through malolactic fermentation) with the essence of sweetness from the tropical fruit on the palate and nose. A fair hint of butter continues to show through the fruit.

2012 Estate Pinot Noir—Russian River Valley pinot noir lovers (like me) will rejoice with this perfect example of the region’s wine.  The cooler area lets the blackberry and eucalyptus come through on the palate and the nose.  Earth and spice are also strong with a fabulous floral finish.  This is a delicate yet complex pinot...just how I like it. 

2012 Estate Petite Sirah—beautiful petite sirah vines surround the picnic area behind the tasting room.  These gorgeous grapes offer another great California petite sirah:  inky, purple color followed by ripe berries, chocolate, and earth.  Smooth and silky tannins show from the first sip until the finish dissipates. 

Gorgeous petite sirah vines and grapes...then wine.

There is a very tight web woven between the early European wine makers who settled the Sonoma area and modern day wine there.  Sonoma’s diversity today owes much to the melting pot of these cultures that brought their close relationships with wine to northern California.  Though Sonoma’s road to modern-day winemaking was not an easy one, these historically important wineries show Sonoma’s exceptional quality…yesterday, today, and tomorrow. 

Dichotomy: J Lohr Vineyards and Parrish Family Vineyards

Dichotomy:  “Division into two mutually exclusive, opposed, or contradictory groups,” a contradiction, opposites paired together.  Life is filled with these.  We find them everywhere:  in nature, in people, in business…and yes, in wine. 

I recently wrote of the wine region of Paso Robles and how much I enjoyed the area.  After leaving, I thought back on my visit and the word “dichotomy” popped in my head.  I chuckled at two of the most positive experiences I had there; both so memorable and meaningful, yet both so different from one another. 

The first is a large producer making literally millions of cases of wine; the other, an artisanal producer making just over a thousand cases.  Two wineries, seemingly so contradictory on the surface, but with so many similarities when directly compared.  These two examples of dichotomy at its finest showcase some of Paso Robles’ finest wines.

J Lohr Vineyards and Wines

As a young boy growing up on a farm in rural South Dakota, Jerry Lohr of J Lohr Vineyards did not necessarily dream about being a winemaker.  Even when he went college, growing grapes was not what he imagined himself doing.  After a bachelor’s degree in civil engineering took Jerry to a master’s degree and a PhD. from Stanford University in California, Jerry went in to the United States Air Force and then took a job with NASA. Though Jerry had a rural upbringing, his passion for wine was fed by his time in California.  He started to search the state for what he considered perfect land to grow grapes and make wines that would show a sense of place. 

Instead of going to Napa like many others were in the late 1960s, he went south to Arroyo Seco, in Monterey County, a little-known region for growing grapes.  His first vineyard was planted there in 1971; by 1987 his wine business was so successful he expanded even further south to Paso Robles, another basically-unknown region for wine. (Read the full story of Jerry Lohr's path to winemaking and the values he expresses through his business.)

J Lohr Vineyards' Paso Robles tasting room and production facilities.

Today, over forty years after the first fateful vintage, J Lohr Vineyards produces about two million cases of wine a year between its two winemaking facilities:  the original in San Jose, now used for the production of white wines, and the Paso location, now used for the production of red wines. 

Most wine drinkers have probably seen J Lohr wines on a liquor store shelf at some point. These are the winery’s widely-distributed Estate wines, found in all fifty states and 27 total countries.  These Estate wines make up the bulk of production, with Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon accounting for one million cases. 

Seven Oaks Vineyard--no matter what direction one looks, seven oaks are seen.

The second J Lohr label is the Vineyard series, all with black and gold markings; these have a smaller production than the Estate wines. The third and fourth labels produced by J Lohr are very limited productions, with first release solely to wine club members and then sold only in the two tasting room locations.  These are the Gesture—named for the fact that these special wines are a “gesture” to wine club members who continue to support J Lohr Vineyards—and Cuvee—blends based on the three Bordeaux areas:  Pomerol, Pauillac, and Saint Emilion—lines. 

It may seem counterintuitive to have a winery that makes one million cases of a single wine at the same time it makes small-lot wines only available at the tasting rooms.  This is possible because at J Lohr Vineyards, there is a winery within a winery, a small production area within the larger one.  This special space makes J Lohr Vineyards capable of multiple styles of wines.

Small winery within the larger winery.

J Lohr Spotlight Wines

2013 Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon—I have long loved this wine as an exceptional cab for its price point.  After my tour at J Lohr, I have even more respect for it.  All grapes are estate grown just across the road from the Paso Robles facility.  The barely-rolling hills of the Seven Oaks Vineyard—only disrupted by the seven oak trees scattered between the vines—allow the fruit to be machine harvested.  Its close access to the production facility is another bonus.  All of these steps keep costs low so that money can be used later when aging the wine.  Every single drop of Seven Oaks Cabernet is aged in French oak barrels, no oak chips or cheap techniques here.  Then after barrel aging, wines go through a series of blending into different sized stainless tanks—from quite small to very large, 167,000 gallons large—to ensure consistency throughout all the bottles. 

From oak barrels...

To smaller tanks...

To larger tanks for blending and consistency.

2012 Arroyo Vista Chardonnay—sourced from the grapes in the Arroyo Seco region of Monterey in the original area Jerry Lohr planted, this is an old-world style chard.  Yes, there is a hint of butter essence, but stone fruit and floral are the strongest characteristics of the wine.  Allowed to go through malolactic fermentation, this wine is silky smooth on the palate.

2013 Tower Road Petite Sirah—known as the durif grape in France, where it is incredibly prone to mildew and rot, petite sirah grows wonderfully in Paso Robles due to the long dry season from June to October.  This is another very popular J Lohr wine; so popular the 2013 was already released because the 2012 sold out.  Red stone fruits and dried herbs on the nose and palate with beautifully soft tannins, this is a perfect example of what California petite sirah can be. 

Parrish Family Vineyards

Winemaker David Parrish has deep roots in the Paso Robles area through his grandpa, an early resident of Atascadero, a small town about half an hour from the actual town of Paso Robles.  David’s grandfather was proud owner of the first post office box in Atascadero and lived in the house that is now the Atascadero museum.  In 1927, he owned 540 acres of land with vineyards.  The legacy of David’s family heritage is incredibly important to David, so important that the image of his grandfather's PO Box 1 is on the label of Parrish Family Vineyard wines.

Parrish Family Vineyards bottles, with David's grandfather's PO Box 1 and historic Atascadero home. 

Though David had this family link to Paso vineyards his entire life, it took him some time to plant his own grapes there.  After graduating from high school, David went to UC Davis before starting his own business, a vineyard trellising service.  Over the last thirty years, David’s company, which he still owns and runs in addition to making wine, has developed and installed trellis systems all over the world. 

David’s company uses American made materials, and over the years, David has developed many items for which he has the patent.  He has traveled all over the world trellising vines, though today he travels much less because modern technology allows him to consult from home and do much of the planning via computer.  Because David’s business was based out of Napa Valley, he has been involved with some of the best-known wines in America, names like Mondavi, Beringer, and Stag’s Leap. 

Today, David has 140 family owned acres growing multiple varieties of grapes between Monterey and Paso Robles.  He started growing his own fruit in 1995.  He sold this fruit to other producers until 2004 when he started making wines under his own label, today making around 1,200 cases.  In 2011, the tasting room just off Paso Robles’ City Park was opened. 

The tasting room off Paso Robles' City Park.

Still truly a family affair, his son-in-law Ethan is the assistant wine maker and “right hand man,” and David’s daughter (Ethan’s wife) Cecily manages the tasting room, public relations, and social media.  David’s family legacy for vineyards and wine will obviously continue to live on through this next generation of wine lovers, possibly passing on to his someday grandchildren.

Parrish Family Vineyards Spotlight Wines

2013 Silken Blanc—a beautiful blend of 85% chardonnay and 15% viognier grapes, the citrus and orange blossom notes on the nose carry through to the palate to create a delightfully strong floral characteristic.  The wines end in a silky (yes, it matches its name) finish that lasts—a wonderful white blend.

2012 Petite Sirah—this is another great example of what California’s climate can do for petite sirah.  On the nose, the dark fruit and chalky, limestone fragrance leads to blue and black fruits on the palate, joining chocolate and dried herbs.  The wine boasts elegant tannins, yet is smooth enough to be great with many robust foods. 

2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon—five years after vintage, this is a superb cabernet.  The French oak aging gives hints of tobacco and spice, but it’s the tannin-acid balance that make this cab special.  Strong but smooth tannins are given life by the perfect acid structure.  Great ripe berries also show through to the finish.  Drink now or save a few years…neither will disappoint. 

Photo in with winemaker David in front of a portrait of his family land.

 “Just as we have two eyes and two feet, duality is a part of life.”  It is.  Opposites pairing together is seen everywhere.  Dichotomies are in individuals, businesses, and wine.  I saw it first hand in Paso Robles, a wine region truly worth a stop.  Though it would seem that large producer J Lohr Vineyards would have nothing in common with small wine maker Parrish Family Vineyards, it is simply not true.  Both truly believe great wine starts in the vineyard.  Both give special attention to the wines every step of the way.  Both have strong family and agricultural ties.  Both produce spectacular wines to enjoy.  The duality shown from these two illustrates the character to be found in Paso Robles.