The Most Wonderful Time of the Year!--Harvest at Old Folsom Vineyards

No, I’m not one of those that gets out the Christmas decorations way, way too early.  It’s harvest time!  The most wonderful time of the year…as far as a wine lover is concerned, anyway.

I’ve been lucky enough to experience harvest multiple times for different wineries, even though I live on the edge of South Dakota.  Yes, grapes are grown here.  And yes, wine is made from the estate-grown grapes. 

So, here is to the harvest!  Please enjoy these pictures from Old Folsom Vineyards, just three miles south of Rapid City.  And remember to celebrate this season!

Before the harvest:  time in the vineyard with Mike Gould--owner.  Netting is removed before harvest.  The marquette grapes are ready!  So is vineyard dog Nel.

During the harvest:  time to pick!  Nets are removed.  Then pickers, volunteers like me, come in to remove the grapes.  Hundreds of pounds of fruit are plucked and then sent to the winery.  (These harvest pictures were actually taken in 2014.  Unfortunately, I had to miss 2016's harvest.  But I got in on all the other harvest 2016 fun!)

After the harvest:  time to press!  Grapes are brought into the vineyard and weighed.  Then they are fed to the crusher/destemmer to release the juice.  From there, the juice, grapes, and skins are pumped to the tank where the magic of fermentation will begin.

After the work:  time to party!  Nothing beats the sight of the vineyards basking in the sunset as wine lovers enjoy the vineyard with wonderful food, fun friends, great music, and fabulous footwear.  Oh, and don't forget the wine...lots of it.

Proud to Be The American--Firehouse Wine Cellars, The American

President’s Day is such an American holiday.  A time to celebrate two of the country’s most important presidents and their birthdays:  George Washington and Abraham Lincoln.  Truly, there may be nothing more American than this day, when many workers get a needed break from the job.  No, nothing more American, except maybe baseball…and hot dogs…and apple pie…and the Marquette grape.

Yes, the Marquette grape.

It is one very American grape.  It’s a hybrid, meaning that is was “sexually” created by mating two other species of grapes together.  This happened in the American Midwest at the University of Minnesota in 2006. It is the grandchild of Pinot Noir, a French grape, but just like many great Americans, Marquette’s grandparents migrated to the U.S. to experience life in the New World.

 Marquette is not just a great American because it was “born” here; it is an example of the American resolve, the grit and guts it takes to find glory in this country.  Bred specifically to withstand harsh conditions, Marquette grapes can grow in shorter growing seasons while the vine's roots survive extremely harsh winters when temperatures drop well below freezing and wind chills down into the negative digits.  Yet, it has concentrated sugar and balanced acid if left on the vine until the perfect moment before picking.  This means that this fruit can make quality American wines in places that have not before been known for their wine trades.

South Dakota, home to Mount Rushmore—the Shrine of Democracy—is a perfect place to grow this patriotic grape.  Firehouse Wine Cellars in Rapid City makes this wine from its estate Marquette grapes grown just outside of Rapid at Old Folsom Vineyards.  These grapes were picked in 2014 on September 13.  I had the honor to help pick on a very chilly Saturday after a hard freeze and snow just two days before on September 11.  Despite the early snow (one of the earliest in the area in the past hundred years), the rest of the growing season was superb, and just over 10,000 pounds of Marquette was picked that weekend. (Want to know more about growing grapes in South Dakota?  Click here.)

Firehouse wanted to pay homage to its loyal citizen grape and the history of this particular grower; it did so by naming the wine The American.  Mike Gould, owner at Old Folsom Vineyards and Firehouse partner, wanted to name this wine to honor his grandfather, who came over to the United States more than one hundred years ago.  Mike’s granddad sailed all the way over to the New World from Italy and started a successful life here.  It is a fitting tribute for both the wine and the history of the grape grower.

The American proves its character from the first glance. A beautiful, medium-bodied wine, the garnet color reflects its stellar bloodline as a Pinot Noir descendant.  The smell was also reminiscent of its grandpa, with just-ripe plum, wet earth, slight mint, and green pepper; all these same elements showed through to the palate as well, then led to a spectacular spicy finish.  What a food friendly wine The American is with cheeses, salamis, and artichoke dip. 

Truly, The American is an impressive example of Marquette.  This is just one in a number of Marquette wines being produced throughout the Midwest that shows what these vines can do with a few years of maturity and a good growing season.  Firehouse winemakers have done a great job of letting the elements of this up-and-coming grape show with just the right amount of intervention in the cellar.  Wines like The American will only continue to increase the prestige and popularity of one of America’s great Midwestern grapes.

So happy President’s Day, Americans!  I hope you enjoyed this day by patriotic gestures like saluting important presidents with a glass of a very tasty—and very American—red wine.  See what loyal Marquette can do for its country by sipping The American, and then see what you can do for your country by enjoying local and American wines.  God. Bless.  America!

Thinkin' and Drinkin' Pink--Great Rose Wines

As the blazing sun beat down on the pavement, I wiped a bead of sweat from my forehead and checked the temperature.  It was no surprise to my red-faced self that it said 91 degrees…in the middle of September.  

Now, I’m not complaining about the heat.  It is actually a special treat for those of us here on the edge of the Black Hills; we call it Indian summer, and we enjoy every day of it.  Mostly because we remember that last year at this exact time we had not only had several nights of a hard freeze, we had also already experienced our first snow storm of the year.

This beautiful weather actually begins to lull area residents into a false sense of security about Mother Nature and her moodiness.  We start to believe we can still drink our favorite summertime wines for months; we have all confidence that our warm-weather drinking habits can continue indefinitely.

But we are always wrong.  

The morning chill reminds us.  The earlier sunset hints at us.  The hard frost prediction in less than two weeks jogs our memory.  

There is no indefinite summer drinking where I live.  None.  

I better get out my favorite rosés and start sipping.  The snowflakes will be falling soon enough, and my transition to heavier, winter wines will begin…whether (weather) I am actually ready or not. 

I loved rosés long before this past year when it was “cool” to drink pink.  I’m not talking your grandmother’s white zin.  I’m talking bone dry pinks.  I can enjoy multiple kinds of rosés, but my favorites are complex, delicate, and/or flavorful.  Here are a few of the standout summer pink drinks from my warm-weather tasting.

Las Rocas Rosé

Spain is a great value for wines in general and rosés in particular.  Made from the garnacha (grenache) grape, this was originally under twelve dollars a bottle; then it was on special, so what a steal at under ten dollars for a great sunny-day sipper.  The nose is filled with strawberry, melon, stone, floral, and white pepper.  On the palate it has a hint of sweetness shown through the strawberry, green herb, and fresh flower.  Pair with robust cheeses for a slight contrast between the hint of sweetness in the wine and the savory flavors of the cheese.

Firehouse Wine Cellars Roosevelt

Yes, I’m including a wine produced in my neck of the woods; it may be a bit of personal bias, but I so enjoyed this wine.  Though it is produced from California fruit, all the production happens in Rapid City, South Dakota.  Another rosé with slight sweetness on the palate, this grenache-based wine has orange blossom and raspberry on the nose first; then the palate is filled with strawberries and green grass.  The gorgeous salmon color is absolutely mesmerizing.  Pair it with fresh fruit, such as strawberry and kiwi.

 

VJB Le Due Rosé

Another rather unique pink, this is made from the aleatico grape, a common variety in Italy but a quite uncommon variety in Sonoma where it is produced.  The aleatico creates a deep, hot pink hue in the wine.  It is not only saturated with color, but with flavor as well.  On the nose there are peaches and flowers with a hint of white pepper.  On the palate, the peach, berries, and floral come through again.  Pair this with light Italian food, think Caprese salad with an aged balsamic drizzle. 

MacPhail Rose

Vivid pink in color, this rosé of Sonoma Coast pinot noir is moving to the dry side of pink, my favored style.  The nose is filled with orange, strawberry, and dried grass.  The palate brings forth more of the strawberry from the nose and adds dried herbs.  This leads to a great floral finish that lasts and lasts.  I love the complexity of this wine; there is so much to contemplate from first sip to final swallow.  Because the flavor is so saturated, this wine pairs with flavorful pasta salads and cold-served picnic meals.

Cartograph Rose

Another rosé of pinot noir, this time sourced from the North Coast, Cartograph shows the delicate side of rosé, which begins in its beautiful baby pink shade. Don’t mistake this delicacy for a simple wine though.  From the first sniff, wet rock, green grass, orange blossom, and fresh rose come through.  On the palate, it is perfectly dry with peaches and orange blossoms to the finish.  Drink this paired with a warm evening on the patio and one of your closest friends…because believe me, it’s so good you won’t want to share!

Chateau TrinQuevedel Traditional Reserve

It would seem that no discussion of great summer pink wines would be complete without including some fabulous French rosés.  The Tavel region of the southern Rhone Valley produces only rosès, and the style of these wines is my ultimate favorite.  A deep rose shade, the blend of multiple grapes—grenache, cinsault, clairette, syrah, mourvèdre, and bourbolenc—gives this wine so much character.  Deep and dry, this vino shows ripe strawberry, green herbs, and white spices on both the nose and palate.  Pair with cheese and charcuterie or white meats. 

Though today I sat in the heat of the sun until I was sweating and thirsty for something other than wine (water, thank you), I know not to be fooled.  I may wish my summer drinking days would last forever, but in my part of the country, this is just not the case.  I need to relish every last sip of my favorite summer wines:  beautiful pink rosès!  I tasted many that I truly appreciated this season, and once the snow starts to fly—which could actually be in just a few short weeks if the past has taught us anything—I will remember these summertime sips as I long for sunshine and warm weather to pair with a patio on a perfect evening.

Legends of the Fall--Harvest in South Dakota

Though for many the first frost of fall brings to mind seasonal colors, football season, and thicker sweaters, what it really brings to mind for winemakers and grape growers is one thing only:  hard work!  I’m always fascinated when the romantic idea of the gorgeous bottle of wine that magically appears at an important event turns into the harsh reality—making wine is dirty, intense work that often goes on for days and weeks before much of a break is given to the winemaker.  Though this truth is happening in every vineyard and winery in the northern hemisphere right now, I got to experience just one small part of it this weekend, harvest at Old Folsom Vineyards outside of Rapid City, South Dakota.

Vines at Old Folsom Vineyards.

            Harvests in South Dakota and other portions of the Midwest are vastly different than most California harvests. While California enologists are worried about the brix (sugar content) of grapes and often must harvest before this number gets too high when the grapes might be considered too ripe, horticulturists in areas like South Dakota and Wyoming have a whole other worry…will the grapes get ripe enough?  This was the question last week as an early hard frost descended on the Black Hills, causing temps to plummet to below freezing.  Though grapes can survive this temperature for a short time, the vines can not.  They begin to shut down, and the grapes need to be picked soon. 

            On September 11, a day known for more patriotic reasons, Mike Gould of Old Folsom Vineyards was checking the weather for more pragmatic purposes.  He needed to gauge the upcoming nights’ temps and make a decision of when to pick the grapes of his 1800 vines on his five-acre plot.  The answer was simple:  as soon as possible. 

            He spread the word and gathered friends, neighbors, and acquaintances to create picking crews for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.  Over the course of the three days, almost 7,000 pounds of grapes were harvested.  Mike started with Frontenac Gris, La Crescent, and Brianna and then moved on to his Frontenac and Marquette grapes.  He also grows Petite Pearl grapes, although these vines are still too young to harvest fruit.

Rows of Marquette vines with the bird net still in place.

Beautiful Marquette grapes just waiting to be picked.

            The first step in the process was to remove the bird netting that went over the vines in early August.  Though tall fencing surrounds the vineyard to keep the deer from completing their own harvest, the birds just fly in at will.  A few still found their way in and under the net, but most were kept at bay and the product safe.  After crawling around on hands and knees to remove the clips holding the netting in place, all were given a cutting tool, a bin, and a bucket (on which to sit).  Old Folsom’s vines are trellised low, so sitting on the five-gallon bucket is actually the perfect height to pick.  The actual act of picking was very simple, and as grapes were dropped into bins, workers moved through the rows to dump the full tubs into larger vessels so the smaller tub could be refilled once more.  Then repeat…and repeat…and repeat…

Your Sweet Sommelier, picking and picking and picking...

My through the grapevine picking partner Annette, also picking and picking and picking...

            I only picked on the third and final day, and the grapes still looked great.  However, the vines themselves were beginning to whither from the earlier cold spell.  The leaves were wilting and dying, a sure sign that the choice to pick these particular days was a good one.  Any more time on the vine and the grapes may have started to shrivel, affecting the sugar or acid content, thus affecting the wine.  Instead, the grapes went to the winery, where they were cold soaked—a process to extract flavor and color from the grapes—waiting for the next step in the fermentation process.

The leaves began wilting from the below-freezing temperatures just days before.

After seven straight hours of work—okay, there was one short break for lunch—I drove home full of the wonder of wine.  The reminder that wine is ultimately an agricultural product doesn’t surprise me, but it is often at odds with the sophisticated image that so many have of wine.  Not that agriculture isn’t sophisticated; it is just darn hard work!  Understanding the amount of work that goes in to each bottle only makes me appreciate wine—and winemakers—even more.  Harvest in the fall is just another step in the long road a grape takes from a small bud on a vine to large sip from a glass.  Enjoy the end product, but remember all the hard work that it takes to go from ground to glass.