Oh what a difference a
week makes.
Last weekend, I was
sitting, basking in the sun as it blazed down on my patio. The temperatures were in the 90s, and I needed
shade to enjoy time outside. However, my
realization that this sunshine must be savored and soaked up in all its glory
seemed almost desperate as I sat sipping on and writing about Napa's sparkling wines.
I was all too correct.
This weekend, temps are
in the 50s...for the high…during the peak of the day. Nights have been in the 30s.
Yes, sometimes just a short
time makes a considerable difference.
The same can be said
for a short distance.
Though Napa County and
Sonoma County are separated merely by a virtual line, visits to the two vary
greatly. Grapes that prosper,
atmospheres of tasting rooms, and philosophies in wine are quite different.
One such difference
seen between these close neighbors is their sparkling wines. Where Napa generally has sparkling houses
that focus primarily on that style of wine and make little else, Sonoma’s diverse
character shows through the many producers that make sparklers as just a minute
part of a wider portfolio of wine.
Sonoma bubbles are truly
special, maybe even more so because they are often one small share of a varied wine
list. Yes, Sonoma has producers who
specialize in sparklers (think Korbel and Gloria Ferrer), but the possibility of
finding a bubbly on the list at even a small producer is likely…and
lovely!
Gloria Ferrer
The first to realize
the benefits of Carneros on the Sonoma side, the Spanish Ferrer Family planted the
traditional Champagne grapes of pinot noir and chardonnay. A stunning tasting room and production facility
(including caves) was opened overlooking the rolling Carneros hills growing the
Ferrer vines.
To call the view from
the tasting bar and outdoor patio gorgeous in truly an understatement.
Sensational.
Beautiful. Striking. Amazing.
Even all these adjectives barely describe the vistas seen while sipping
quality sparkling wines. Whether a sunny
Sunday or a gloomy weekday, this is a Sonoma must...a true wow experience! However, the still wines produced here are
also quality. Don’t miss tasting a
few of the bubble-less options as well.
 |
| Rain or shine, beautiful vistas await at Gloria Ferrer. |
Wines of note:
VA de VI—With a splash of moscato, this is an off-dry style of
bubbly. The moscato adds a bit of
richness and smoothness to the mouthfeel.
Joyful fruits of apple and lemon with yeast on the nose and palate, this
would be a great sipper for those who just aren’t ready for the zesty essence
of truly dry sparklers. It would also be
quite food friendly, especially with any dishes that have a hint of spice.
2011 Brut Rosé—If anyone is paying attention to my palate, this
Brut Rosé should be a given. My bias is
beginning to show through—big rosé sparkling fan here…okay, huge fan! Gloria
Ferrer’s shows strawberry shortcake with lemon zest sprinkled on top that makes
me love this type of wine. A great
example of the style, drink it—and enjoy it—by itself.
 |
| Sparkling or still, both are special options here. |
Buena Vista
Historically important to Sonoma, Buena Vista actually started by
producing large quantities of sparkling wine in the late 1800s. Hungarian Agoston Harazsthy was in the process
of building a Sonoma wine empire when he purchased land to grow vineyards and
built an impressive production facility, including caves for aging
sparkling. He entrusted his son Arpad to
produce traditional method sparkling wines from California grapes.
Arpad had immediate
success shown through the multiple awards he brought home with his 1861 cuvee
from the 1863 California State Fair. Unfortunately,
this success was short lived. Under the
direction of his father, Arpad produced a large 1862 batch of sparkling…and not
a single bottle had bubbles. Not
one.
Obviously Buena Vista
has been through numerous changes in the over 100 years since this incident. One is that excellent sparkling wines
are consistently produced and enjoyed by consumers. Myself included.
 |
| Historically important and incredibly impressive press house as tasting room. |
Wine of Note:
La Victoire Brut Rosé—Served in a more traditional style bottle, Buena Vista
considers this a tribute to Arpad and his sparkling wines from the past. A rich smell and taste of ripe red cherries
comes through with a hint of almond cookie on the finish. Pair with fresh strawberries for a special
(and maybe romantic) treat.
 |
| Another great example of a brute rose. |
VML
Virginia Marie Lambrix
prides herself on her artisan style of winemaking at VML Wines. This attitude of treating all wines as small,
special lots is quite evident in the one sparkling she produces. The tasting room is located in the beautiful
Russian River Valley, one of my favorite spots in all of Sonoma. The location is enough of a reason to visit,
but once a sip of any of the wines is enjoyed, the reasons multiply. A tasting can be enjoyed inside the cool,
modern tasting space, or better yet, pack a picnic to sit on the VML patio and
drink in all that is the Russian River Valley!
 |
| The Russian River Valley in all its splendor, enjoyed at VML Wine. |
Wine of Note:
2010 VML Blanc de Noir—After I had completed my tasting, a young
teacher, her mother, and her fiancée shared the patio with me. They had come all the way to the RRV to toast
the teacher’s upcoming new job with a bottle of VML Blanc de Noir because no
other sparkling would do! Brut style
with just a touch of chardonnay in the cuvee (even though it is labeled a blanc
de noir), this is a unique wine filled with peach pie and lemon zest. Pair with seafood or a new job.
 |
| A special, sparkling treat at VML. |
Longboard Vineyards
From surf boards to
grape vines, Oded Shakked took his sense of adventure from his surfing career
and applied it to winemaking. Though
this may seem quite a jump, it isn’t as big as the jump he made from his
home in Israel to his tasting room in Healdsburg. He scaled this hurdle with stops at UC Davis
and J Vineyards. While at J, he learned much about wine making
from Judy Jordan, including how to make traditional method sparkling wines. (J sparklers from Sonoma are also worth a
taste!)
A wonderful, relaxed
atmosphere permeates all when walking in the totally hip tasting area. Surf boards hang from the ceilings and surf
videos play on the television while excellent wines are tasted with the coolest
tasting room staff. Longboard currently
has one sparkling wine to enjoy, but rosé lovers like me can begin to cheer—his
brut rosé is coming soon!
 |
| Hang loose at the Longboard tasting room. |
Wine of note:
Brut Cuveè Sparkling—Traditional method in every way, shape, and
form, this smells, tastes, and finishes like a brut Champagne. Dry, crisp, and zippy filled with lemon and
bread dough, this is a sparkler for serious bubble lovers. Enjoy as an aperitif at a formal dinner or as
a celebration for any occasion; however, just enjoy this wine soon.
 |
| Longboard's Brut Cuvee...look at those bubbles! |
As I wrap up in a warm
blanket today after sweating in the sun last weekend, I’m reminded what a
difference a week can make. I am also
well aware what a difference just a few miles can make, especially when it
comes to wine. So close in proximity,
yet often so far in terms of style, Napa and Sonoma make some absolutely
amazing sparkling wines. However, Napa
sparkling producers usually specialize in just sparklings and do few still
wines.
Just a hop, skip, and a
jump away in Sonoma, many producers have a much more diverse array of wines on
the tasting menus. Some, like Gloria
Ferrer, may specialize in bubbles, but still produce multiple still options. Others illustrate the varied style for which
Sonoma is known, producing mostly quality still sippers, but then showcasing
one or two sparkling options.
Those that embrace this
change of pace are making some very special bottles of bubbles. So special that wine lovers need to embrace
the contrasts of these two regions and drink the bubbles of both!
